seanan_mcguire: (princess)
[personal profile] seanan_mcguire
It's no secret that I love Disney Parks more than is strictly normal. While my friends start saying "maybe we could vacation somewhere, you know, else," I am still going "HAUNTED MANSION WOO HAUNTED MANSION LET'S GO." So when I had the opportunity to go to Paris, it was pretty inevitable that I would actually be going to Disneyland Paris (still often referred to as "EuroDisney" by people who haven't gone alone with the name change).

Problem the first: the cost of the Disneyland hotels was so high that it seriously made more sense to go in on a very nice, very expensive apartment on Rue Rambuteau, which is like saying "it cost so much to get a manicure that I decided to buy a new car." These things should not even be in the same discussion. But they were, and so we decided to stay with our friends and have some wonderful non-Disney experiences to go with the wonderful Disney experiences that we were already guaranteed.

Problem the second: we didn't actually know how many days we wanted to spend at Disneyland Paris. I mean, there's the quick and easy "all of them," but that didn't really address the fact that we had no idea how my foot was going to have held up during Loncon (surprisingly well, as it turns out), or how much walking we'd have to do to get to the Parks (annoyingly large amounts), or even how much there'd be to do inside the Parks, which are more spread out and still slightly sparser in some ways than their California equivalents. In the end, we decided to buy our tickets when we got there, since that would give us more flexibility.

Monday, we went down and wandered around Disney Village, and I started my multi-day campaign to collect all the pins I'd never had the opportunity for before.

Tuesday dawned bright and (relatively) early, considering that we were all sort of sleeping with no concept of time or how long things would take. Vixy, Amy, and I departed for the train station, and were basically the annoying giggly tourists all the way there, since "We're going to DISNEYLAND!" was continually appropriate.

Upon arriving, we joined the first mighty queue we found: the bag check. This took a dauntingly long time, and was followed by an even mightier queue, where we bought tickets. All three of us got Park-hopper tickets, two-day for me and Vix, one-day for Amy. I was already almost out of steps by the time we got through the gates and entered Disneyland Paris, so Vixy and Amy parked me on a bench while they went and got me a wheelchair.

This is where I say "we fell prey to thinking that because it was a Disney Park, it would be like all the other Disney Parks, and nothing could possibly go wrong." I had looked at the website previously, trying to figure out what we needed to do in order to have me in a chair without a problem, and had not realized that we would be banned from the main queues of even rides where I could physically go through the queue in a wheelchair. Instead, we would have to use the back entrances for everything, and would need to have an Access Pass. Why would this be a problem? Because at Disneyland Paris, unlike at Disneyland California, you need a doctor's note to get an Access Pass. Even if you clearly cannot walk. So...

Amy and Vixy returned with a wheelchair, and we proceeded into the Park. Being long-time Disney Park people, we immediately beelined for the Phantom Manor (the local equivalent of the Haunted Mansion), using the Frontierland signs as our landmarks. I admit, I teared up when I saw the Manor for the first time.

The queue area involved stairs. Amy followed the wheelchair signs to the back entrance, where we learned about the Access Cards for the first time. Oh, we said, and made our way back to City Hall...which is where we discovered that we were supposed to have a doctor's note. Which was a problem, since a) we didn't have one, b) my doctor was in California, c) we were in Paris, and d) my doctor was not going to get up at local 3am to fax over a note saying "her foot is messed up, she cannot walk." Vixy, as our main French speaker, tried to explain that we hadn't known before we got there and was there anything we could do. Amy looked distressed. I tried not to cry, while wishing I could sink into the floor. I hate this, I hate it, I hate having to do research on lifts and where I need a doctor's note and not knowing, day to day, whether I'm going to be able to walk. And sitting there not knowing what was being said, just that it was being said about me, made me want to die.

I can say "it was all my fault, I didn't dig deep enough into the website," and that is true. I can also say "spending a day confined to a wheelchair for the privilage of using the back entrances, not seeing the queue areas, not getting on the ride any faster, and being sneered at for taking up space, is not fun; it is not something I do for shits and giggles," and that is also true.

Eventually, Vixy was able to get across that my injury was temporary, rather than being a permanent disability which was why we didn't have a placard or anything. The very nice man in City Hall basically went "Americans" and gave us an Access Card that was good for me and one other person to use the back entrance (again, not priority access: we had to wait for the length of the line before we could get on the rides, which was totally fine by us).

We returned to the Phantom Manor, where Vixy went through the line while Amy and I waited in the back. Multiple people checked my Access Card to see if it was legit, which...we were not getting priority access. We were not "cutting" or getting a special magical show. We were, instead, fighting across cobblestones in a manual wheelchair, having people run into us, and basically being treated like we didn't deserve Disney because I had the audacity to be in an assistance vehicle. I was miserable. I was sitting in the Phantom Manor, feeling like a cheat and a fraud and a liar, because everyone was treating me like one. The Cast Members I usually count on to be on my side were acting like we were trying to pull something over on them.

I have never felt more like a burden to my friends and loved ones.

But the line moved, and we got on the Phantom Manor, and Vincent Price laughed for me, and I gradually reclaimed my Disney spirit. It was not easy. It hurt, and that was new and strange and awful. But I did it. Amy and Vixy and I proceeded to a BBQ place, where we ate lunch, and then enjoyed the Park.

Alice's Curious Labyrinth! Space Mountain Mission 2! The Nautilus! The Tower of Terror (across the way in Disney Studios)! The new Ratatouille ride, which used the trackless 3-D ride format from Mystic Manor, and was splendid! And so so so so so so so so so so so so so many pins. Oh, the pins. AN INFINITY OF PINS. I traded constantly, and got glorious pins from cast members, and it was wonderful.

Space Mountain Mission 2 was jerky and weird, but it was a coaster Amy had never been on, and we loved it so. We hit the Ratatouille ride just before closing, and the Cast Member on the door kindly let us ride together, even though I still had to use the wheelchair entrance. Dinner was at a little cafe on Main Street, and included the best ham and cheese sandwich I have ever had. We returned home tired but okay.

The next day it was just me and Vixy. We had already decided that our main objective would be a) pins and b) trying to eat lunch at Cinderella's Enchanted Table, so Vixy could meet the mice (Suzie and Perla). I decided not to get a wheelchair. It just wasn't worth it, and I knew I could turn back at any time; we didn't need to close out the Park.

It was my first day on foot in a Disney Park in more than two years.

To say that I was nervous would be an understatement; so would to say that I was overjoyed. I could climb stairs (slowly). I could step up curbs (also slowly). I could do anything I fucking wanted and it was magical and I only cried a little from the pain. I really am getting better. (Note that this would not have been possible had I not been in a wheelchair for the whole previous day.)

Vixy and I started by going to see the dragon that sleeps beneath the castle. It was a glorious piece of animatronics, and leaving put us right near Cinderella's Enchanted Table, where lo and behold, they had just started service, and we were able to get a table. She was ecstatic. I was amused. We spent two and a half hours eating a very slow lunch, ending with flaming ice cream balls, and she got her picture with the mice. She then declared that it was ANYTHING YOU WANT O'CLOCK, since I hadn't stabbed her with a fork during the very slow dining experience. Yay!

I elected for Pirates. Their queue led through a smuggler's tunnel into Tortuga, and it was a glorious piece of ride design (the ride itself was pretty awesome, too). From there, we went to Indiana Jones (totally different from the California ride; this is a single-track roller coaster with a full inversion), Phantom Manor, and then out, marking a day with very few rides, but with a lot of pins. So many pins.

On the whole, Disneyland Paris was gorgeous, and I wish I had been able to take more time to really drink it all in. But I couldn't have done any more time than I did on foot, and being there in a wheelchair was so unpleasant and dehumanizing that I don't think I could have loved the Park if I had spent any more of my time in an assistance vehicle.

Glad I went; may go back someday; will not go back until I am absolutely sure I can spend the whole trip on foot.

Next up, Ireland, and Eurocon!

Date: 2014-09-04 10:20 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] manynames.livejournal.com
I'm sorry you had that experience. My understanding is that it's a newish thing, after a few very high-profile and mean spirited articles claiming that rich families were hiring disabled people or faking disability so that they could get to the front of the queues. When I went to Disneyland Paris in a wheelchair quite a few years ago, we were ushered to the exit of rides and got to avoid the queues - no paperwork and no questions. I hope they'll ease up on it, because if there's one goddamned place where kids in wheelchairs deserve to feel like being disabled is a positive thing, it's Disneyland.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:28 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Those articles confuse me. Every study that has been done shows that 2% of people, at most, are abusing the system. So in order to prevent two people from maybe getting away with something that costs people effectively nothing, ninety-eight people who need that system should be punished?

It's bullshit. It's ablest bullshit, and it makes me so mad.

Date: 2014-09-04 10:52 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] naurwen.livejournal.com
I'm glad you ended up enjoying so many things there, but the way they treated you is not acceptable. I'd like *them* to experience this once, just once. It's not like a person goes, aw, whyever not, it's so much fun, let's get a wheelchair and do this on purpose. head-desk galore. Just not right :(

Date: 2014-09-07 08:29 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Seriously.

People tell me sometimes "oh, kids rent those to cut in line," and I'm like, really? Because being stared at and othered and shoved into and seeing the world at crotch-level, that's totally what I wanted as a teenager.

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Date: 2014-09-04 11:05 am (UTC)
falnfenix: A dark purple horse with a pale purple mane snorts ice crystals into the air. The background is dark blue.  Beneath the horse's head is the word SKYDANCER. (Skydancer - Rainbow Brite)
From: [personal profile] falnfenix
i'm floored. absolutely FLOORED. i'd be tempted to notify Disney corporate about that, to be quite honest.

Date: 2014-09-04 03:56 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kalimeg.livejournal.com
In CA I LOVED Pirates. Sorry, the Manor just didn't work for me -- HATED the shell seating and evil bar safety thing. I suspect I was 50 years too late going there.

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Date: 2014-09-04 11:35 am (UTC)
ext_58174: (southpark)
From: [identity profile] katyhh.livejournal.com
I am glad that you were still able to enjoy some of your stay at Disneyland Paris ...
To be honest, I was worried about it, based on my own experiences at (back then) EuroDisney.
The approach to "service" is very ... ummm . French. I know. This is rude, and stereotypical, and a non-France-EU-citizen prejudice, to a large extent, but ... on some levels, it sadly is true. Disneyland in Paris is NOT comparable on so many levels with the US ones. You do not have that unconditional "our customer is our King" approach at all, and while I am absolutely appalled at the way they treated you, I am sorry to say that I am not surprised. I will not return to Disneyland in Europe as long as France is the only country that has one.
Otoh, if I ever make it to Disneyland in California, maybe you can come along? :)
Hugs.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
I am ALWAYS down for Disneyland in California. <3

Date: 2014-09-04 11:41 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] kittycat22.livejournal.com
As with others, I'm appalled at the way you were treated by the people of Disneyland Paris.

I also just wanted to comment that I was getting a little teary reading of your experience of being able to walk. I am also coming back from a 2 year injury experience (back for me) where I could not do so many things I wanted to do- and I am also recently back from a European vacation where I was able to do things like "go up stairs" and be OK. It's amazing, and I'm so glad you also had THIS experience while at Disneyland.

I wish you ongoing recovery experiences and re-discovery of the things you used to love.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Thank you.

<3 <3 <3

Date: 2014-09-04 12:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] parodie.livejournal.com
I'm so sorry you had such a frustrating first day. I hope you sent feedback to customer service people, if only for the catharsis of it. But as others have said, it can certainly happen that French customer service is rather rude; I would have expected Disney to be an exception. How sad.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:30 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Yeah, we really expected Disney to be Disney.

Our bad.

Date: 2014-09-04 12:17 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] catsittingstill.livejournal.com
I'm very sorry you were treated badly while in a wheelchair at Disneyland Paris. That sucks. It was not you that was broken; it was the goddamn *system* that was broken. I'm glad you managed to work through it and get your Disneyland mojo back.

Another LonCon journaler was disabled and apparently had an extremely difficult time getting around London. I get the impression that while the US is no picnic for the disabled, Europe is noticeably worse.

It does occur to me that the long lunch the next day may also have been a nice rest for your foot, and given you more Disneyland time than you otherwise might have gotten. And I'm amused and surprised that the apartment was cheaper than a hotel.

Date: 2014-09-04 12:36 pm (UTC)
ext_58174: (southpark)
From: [identity profile] katyhh.livejournal.com
I get the impression that while the US is no picnic for the disabled, Europe is noticeably worse.
That is, sadly, very true.

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Date: 2014-09-04 12:31 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] arcaneblades.livejournal.com
Glad you got to go, and sorry it was a rough experience. The only Disney I have done so far is the one in California, due to not living terribly near to wither, and I am already sad knowing that I will most likely be missing this year's annual trip due to medical and finances. However, I want to know about the PINS! I mostly collect Alice in Wonderland, with an emphasis on Cheshire Cat pins, and this of course makes me want to know which sorts *you* collect, and perhaps about at least *one* of the treasures you obtained on this part of your vacation, should you be willing to share.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:31 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
I mostly collect Hercules, Tinker Bell, and Wreck-It Ralph-related pins. There will be a pin update when I'm home, and can actually get to them; I sent the whole lot home with Vixy, for the sake of my luggage.

Date: 2014-09-04 01:06 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] adafrog.livejournal.com
I'm so sorry. {{{{hugs}}}}

Date: 2014-09-07 08:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Thank you. *hug*

Date: 2014-09-04 01:12 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] elizalavelle.livejournal.com
I had my first experience at Orlando Disney travelling with a disabled person and having the staff there be extra helpful really does make all of the difference. Everyone is deserving of Disney fun! Even though I'm aware that some people try to scam the system it's not as if that's a problem that really interferes with anyone who is perfectly able to move around on their own having fun. Plus my thought is that if you're in a wheelchair, or are blind, or are sick/in pain in any way you deserve a little extra Disney magic. I'm kind of sad that Paris Disney doesn't do that in the same way.

But I am happy that you were able to find the magic anyway and wound up having a fun experience. Your post makes me want to go have more Disney fun but I think I don't get my next fix until 2015.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:35 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Florida and California are absolutely wonderful about disability. The new system has some bugs, but I think once it's worked out, it will be better than the old one.

Paris, on the other hand...nope.

Date: 2014-09-04 02:35 pm (UTC)
From: [personal profile] museclio
I'm sorry they were insufficiently nice to the Seanan (or really decent at all). This is one of those cases where failing to stop frauds is substantially better than making actually disabled people feel shitty.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:36 am (UTC)

Date: 2014-09-04 03:07 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] juglore.livejournal.com
I sympathize. I really do. I managed to damage my heart and get tired fast and recover slowly. There is no way I could do Disney. I am sorry Disney wasn't able to Disney in France.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
You could totally do Disney in Florida or California if you were with people who were willing to match your pace, and had a guide to get you where you needed to be. Paris broke my heart.

Date: 2014-09-04 03:22 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] sylviamcivers.livejournal.com
I am so sorry they treated you like that.
When I went to Disney in Florida I was stuck in a wheelchair - I could walk down the block, where there are nice brick buildings to lean on if I need to, but not across miles (and miles bad miles and miles) of open space.

The costume-cast were super nice to me - I think I got more posed pictures than ordinary folks. I did the 'take a number' waiting for lines - like you, going through back doors and waiting my turn on the side instead of weaving through the long lines.

And these days, when I forget something on the other side of the stairs, I'm practically singing about it - because I can go up! all the stairs! and then I can go back down! Without collapsing! It's so wonderful! And no healthy-from-birth person understands what a glory and a wonder it is to hurry up a flight of stairs.

Best wishes to you and your foot. May you be dancing on it in the near future.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:37 am (UTC)

Date: 2014-09-04 03:42 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] celtic-catgirl.livejournal.com
I'm dismayed that you were treated so poorly but also so excited to hear that on Day 2 you were able to (slowly) enjoy the freedom of walking through Disneyland. I might have shed a happy tear for you.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:37 am (UTC)

Date: 2014-09-04 05:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] vettecat.livejournal.com
Very sorry you had such a miserable experience, but glad you were still able to enjoy part of your trip.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:37 am (UTC)

Date: 2014-09-04 05:48 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] morningapproach.livejournal.com
I am very disappointed that they gave you such a hard time about being in a wheelchair. *hugs*

What is the deal with the pins? Is it a collectible thing? If one was to start (I am going to Disney World at Christmas time for the first time in 13 years this year), where would I begin?

Date: 2014-09-07 08:37 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
The pins are a collectable thing, and they're available at any Park. The nice thing is, once you have a few, you can trade with any cast member wearing a lanyard.

Date: 2014-09-04 05:49 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cupcake-goth.livejournal.com
I'm sorry that you had to put up with such rudeness and pain, and I am VERY glad that you were able to get in your magic Disney mindset in spite of it.

PHantom Manor! Eeeeee! I am full of glee and envy.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
VINCENT PRICE LAUGHED FOR ME HE LAUGHED FOR ME OMG IT WAS SO GOOD

Date: 2014-09-04 06:02 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] cryptaknight.livejournal.com
It's a shame Disneyland Paris is not as accommodating as the US equivalents. My friend took her mother to Disneyland shortly before her mother passed; she was in a chair and had a wonderful time.

I, too, am a huge Disney fan. We're probably moving to the midwest in a year or so, and one thing I will miss terribly is having Disneyland in driving distance. When I lived in SoCal I had an annual pass, and still get out there once a year or so now that I am about four hours away. My son has been four times in his short life (once for his birthday, which was amazing). Anyway, can't blame you for being a huge Disney fan! I'd love to visit the international parks some day.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:38 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
On the plus side, you'll be closer to Disney World!

Date: 2014-09-04 06:30 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] martianmooncrab.livejournal.com
, but with a lot of pins. So many pins.

so, when your luggage goes through xray, it goes METAL METAL METAL... and then starts to call on Will Robinson..

Date: 2014-09-07 08:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Hee hee hee.

Date: 2014-09-05 02:36 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] melissa-actress.livejournal.com
I'm glad you managed to have a good time and hang onto the Disney spirit, despite the fact that Disney customer service en francais seems to be leagues behind the American version. Disney corporate training is clearly slacking.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Very much so.

Date: 2014-09-05 07:06 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] westrider.livejournal.com
*hugs* That's awful that you were treated so badly while in a wheelchair. I'm glad to hear that you were able to eventually have a good time despite it. The details were different, but I've had experiences where I was really looking forward to something, and then the way I was treated just ruined it for me, and it's horrible. Glad this didn't sink all the way to that.

Date: 2014-09-07 08:39 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
I was really worried, for a little while, that it would.

Date: 2014-09-05 02:29 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] elialshadowpine.livejournal.com
Ugh ableism. I'm sorry you had to deal with that. You shouldn't need a doctor's note for a freaking amusement park, for fuck's sake. Especially when a lot of people come from out of the country and may not know of the rules and thus be unable (as you were) to contact their doctor. I'm glad they at least gave you the pass, but it sounds like the further treatment was shoddy. It disappoints me greatly, because I've heard great things about Disney US's handling for PWD. If I ever get to Disney Paris (doubtful, but hey, you never know) it's something I'll have to keep in mind, because I can't walk a large amusement park anymore without a great deal of pain.

*hugs and booze of choice, if no likey booze, substitute beverage of choice* :)

Date: 2014-09-07 08:40 am (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
Disney US is great. I highly recommend it.

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Date: 2014-09-06 06:04 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] palsycorn.livejournal.com
As someone with a permanent mobility disability, and one that requires that I use a wheelchair for long distances, I feel you so hard. I love my chair. My chair is magnificent (side note: please, please, please don't say "confined to a wheelchair". Wheelchairs are FREEING). But other people's attitudes are shitty. I'm used to the unpleasantness and the dehumanization, unfortunately, and sometimes I don't even notice it. Sending hugs.

Date: 2014-09-06 09:41 pm (UTC)
From: [identity profile] seanan-mcguire.livejournal.com
In my case, I'm afraid it is "confined." I don't use a chair enough at home to have any real independent mobility; the most I can hope for is to turn myself around when I get into a tight place. I can't even take myself to the bathroom. For regular or long-term users, it's absolutely freeing. I find my mobility scooters at American Disneyland freeing, because I am genuinely free. But in a rented manual, I am confined, I am trapped, and I am miserable.

I absolutely don't intend to dehumanize, and I wouldn't use that language for anyone else who had not said that was their preferred language. But for me, in this situation? It was absolutely and unfortunately a confinement.

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